Exercise TIGER ICELANDIC ADVENTURE (TIA) was a Summer Mountaineering expedition to the Landmannalaugar, Porsmörk, Vatnajökullsbjóðgarður and Reykjavik areas of Iceland, incorporating Summer Mountain Foundation (SMF), The Landmannalaugar to Porsmörk Trail and Winter Skills training.
The planning process for Ex TIA had been in the development stage since Feb 14, as the Ex approached, the ground rush soon became faster and faster, however all pulling together during the final days before the expedition. Below are the extracts from SSgt Lowther’s diary during the expedition.
13 Aug 14 Everything ran smoothly and to plan, week one day one of Ex TAI, I’d like to say it ran like clock work however I wouldn’t like to jinx the rest of the trip. After landing we experienced a 50 minute coach drive from a local bus company to Reykjavik City Hostel. Ideally I would have liked to travel straight to Landmannalauger to start our trek, however transport links in Iceland are limited and the next bus would not be until 0830hrs the following day. First impressions of Iceland are that it is a very beautiful, calm (no hustle and bustle even in the city) and clean, and the same could be said for the City Hostel. The group, Lt Thompson (Leah), SSgt Kingshott (Kol), SSgt Ralph (Col), Sgt Holman (Tom), Cpl Collings (Danny), LCpl Chow (Danny) and I (SSgt Jon Lowther) didn’t waste the opportunity to soak up the local atmosphere and went into Reykjavik for our evening meal.
14 Aug 14So, we departed on a four and a half hour journey and although coach journeys can be extremely tedious this one was extremely interesting and had a commentary running throughout. The scenery was extraordinary, some of which appeared to be that of a lunar landscape. Our trekking began at Landmannalaugar (a small group of huts and tents at a cross roads and meeting of rivers, one icy cold from glacial melt and the other steaming hot from a hot spring). As we walked by, people bathed in the hot river. We followed the Landmannalaugar trail marked by red and white sticks in the ground. The trail passed through many different landscapes, from black volcanic basalt and pumice (rock/stone), to bright (almost fluorescent) green mountains covered in moss, hot volcanic streaming rivers and hot springs, and finally through snow and ice (I suppose it is known as the land of Ice and Fire). All this within a matter of four hours walking. The route travelled through Bennisteinsalda and then ascended dramatically in height to 1060m to our camp site for the evening at Hafnitinnuker, a primitive camp site with circles of rocks to protect campers from the strong valley winds. We erected the tents for the evening and small gas cooker meals of mainly pasta or noodles were cooked hunched behind the rocks for shelter. After Tea, Col and I took a small walk to the top of a near-by summit, Torfajökull which is part of the Torfajökull volcanic massive, again the views were amazing. The light here in Iceland at this time of year is extensive and there only seems to be a matter of about four hours of darkness, maybe less. We had noticed this last night when the sun shone through the hostel curtains even at midnight. As I’m writing this, all but Col and I are asleep after a hard day, despite the time being only 2100 hrs. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.
15 Aug 14 - HRAFNTINNUSKER – BOTNAR Today has always been planned as a double-day - we are covering twice the mileage specified in the guide books. In fact we covered 27 Km’s in total and, again like yesterday, the landscape was totally unique, certainly unlike anything I’ve seen before. The hike started with scenery of red mountains (red due to being at the epicentre of an eruption at one time), the red mountains lead to angry thermal springs and stream that we needed to pass by to progress through our walk. The hike then passed through green mountains, almost florescent green, mountains of moss rather than grass nor trees, in fact I haven’t seen a tree so far on our journey. The new green landscape was not without its hazards in the form of snow covered passes and rivers. One river in particular caused great amusement for all when we had to strip to our underwear to cross at the shallowest point through the icy melt water (despite being the shallowest point it was still thigh deep).
Next to follow was the black terrain across the lava fields of ash and basalt through Stóra-Sula. Bright green mountains rising from the ashes watching over us from the east. The lava fields, although beautiful in their own unique way, seemed to last forever and the group had already started to become sore, especially given the fact that we were wearing B3 mountaineering boots for the duration and carrying up to 30Kg’s on our backings including both summer and winter equipment, 3 days of food and water along the way. The Botnar hut was a welcome sight for all, unfortunately I think two members of our group may be broken already, bad times!
16 Aug 14 - Botnar – Volcano Huts, Húsadalur, Porsmörk Although primitive, the Botnar huts were perfectly adequate, with places for us to pitch a toilet and a tap. During the night the winds had picked up, howling through the mountain valleys - despite this the tents remained, although one became slightly wind beaten.
Even before we began today’s journey most, if not all, our feet were sore and one complained of a pulled groin. I guess today’s journey will be testing for all.
The day started with a short ascent away from the campsite. The trail led over a stream in a southerly direction, crossing more streams and then down an extremely steep slope. After the descent (that appeared to last for a lifetime) we crossed a beautiful deep gorge cut by the river Frmril – Emstrum, and we took the opportunity to take some snaps. After only a few steps the path ascends leading onto a plateau, from there the path carried on in a westerly direction and left the plateau. Now travelling southwest we passed through Almenninggar and two smaller gorges. The landscape again changed into another new world, this time into a rocky landscape of passed lava flow and, as we moved closer to Porsmörk, the scenery became greener and greener until we were travelling through a forest of trees. The path split, leading us to the ‘Volcano Huts’.
The Volcano huts were in an excellent location - it had a restaurant, showers and beds, a hot (warm) spring and even a sauna. This was a welcome relief for weary travellers, especially the restaurant. Tom and I took full advantage of the hot spring (which was exceeding slippery and slimy due to the build up of algae) and the sauna. With a full stomach I slept well.
17 Aug 14 After a lot of soul searching, weighing of alternatives and decision-making, it was decided that it would be best for the group if we moved directly from Porsmörk to Skaftafell by bus (some simply wouldn’t make it up the Fimmvörðuhuls due to various ailments), and sadly the attempt on the great Eyjafjallajökull (the unpronounceable disruptive volcano of 2010) would be abandoned.
Eyjafjallajökull was the last world known volcano to erupt in Iceland and when it did so grounded most planes in Europe during 2010, with the disruption lasted approximately six weeks. I will be back again to conquer this great volcano and mountain, and Kol and I have already discussed plans to return.
The eight hour bus journey from Porsmörk to Skafafell, although unplanned, was very interesting, stopping at many exciting places along the way, included Skogar, the original and planned end to our trail. A fabulous waterfall hung at Skogar, over 100m high. Other stops and sights included a beach very much like the Giants Causeway, Co Antrim, with hexagonal geology due to the fast cooling of lava entering the cool sea.
18 Aug 14 - Kristianartinder (1126m) Our first walking day in Skaftafell and an excellent day for trekking. As we left the campsite at the visitor centre Skaftafell the weather was warm and the sun was high in the sky (at least warm and high in the sky for Iceland). The group now five (two are resting today due to the strain of recent days) headed up Eystragil through the green forest (Icelandic forest is short and only waist to shoulder height, I guess this is due to the limited growing season and long winters). The gradient was steady through the forest but pleasant and exceptionally quiet. The Eystragil path rose above the forest and opened out onto barren land of glacial scree, winding to and fro towards and away from the glacier to our east, a glacier we would handrail to the summit of Kristinartinder.
As we gained height the ground became steeper and the conditions became excessively windy both in the saddle and when exposed to the Skaftafell’s Tokull glacier. The group were elated to summit Kristinartinder, the first summit the group had reached together (less two). We had a photo with the Union Flag at the top.
During the descent we found a reasonable patch of snow to introduce some winter skills to the group - new to all but Kol our Winter Mountain Leader. First we learnt how to produce a simple workable platform to work from by cutting through the snow and ice with adze end of the axe. Next, we learnt how to use the platform effectively and how to store our equipment on it, we then learnt how to walk using an ice axe, how to turn and cut steps both with an axe and with boots only. Next we learnt how to walk down slopes, how to ascend up steep slopes and traverse with crampons and axes. Finally we learnt about mixed terrain (moving over snow and ice mixed with rock).
Once we had been introduced to the ice we moved down the mountain towards what would again be our home for the night, the campsite at Skaftafell National Park. A truly excellent day, best day yet, a summit conquered and new skills learnt.
19 Aug 14 - Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Today was rather more relaxed than yesterdays hike. The group took a 45 minute bus excursion to Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon, where we hiked east along the shore of the 18Km squared lake. We finished the day with a 40 minute amphibious vehicle tour to experience the glacial lake in its full glory. The gigantic icebergs were magnificent, colours of white, black (from glacial moraine) and some the deepest blue. The icebergs are the result of the Breiðxilmerkuiljökul glacier (easy for Icelanders to say!) slowly retreating. The glacial lake was set in fantastic scenery and is overlooked by the great Hvannadalshnjúkur, Iceland’s largest mountain (2110m).
20 Aug 14 - Skaftafell to Reykjavik A day of travelling, nine hours and three buses. Today, we arrived back to the City Hostel Reykjavik and I was greeted by a birthday muffin with candles, a really nice surprise from the guys. Although 34 candles would have been a fire hazard, that evening we went out for an Italian and a couple of ‘Polar Bear’ and ‘Viking’ beers.
21 Aug 14 - Admin day
22 Aug 14 - Blue Lagoon A fantastic visit to one of Iceland’s natural wonders. A natural geothermal spring (natural, but well developed) located 50 minutes east of Reykjavik. A days luxury in the hot pools, saunas and steam rooms in a beautiful environment.
23 Aug 14 - Reykjavik Coastal Hiking Trail Today we were back on the hiking trails, this trail a lot more subdued in comparison to the first week, a coastal and city hike. Although officially starting from Ráðhus, we had to alter our plans due to the unforeseen Reykjavik Marathon (something I had not planned for), but not before viewing the spectacular event for 30 minutes. The hike today was fairly flat as you would expect on a coastal route. It included the sights of the Parliament Building, Harbour, Viking Maritime Museum, with views of the distant Snaefellð uplands of Akrafjall, Skailðsheiði and Esja.
24 Aug 14 - Golden Circle Tour / Snorkelling the American/ Eurasian Tectonic Plate Fissure Until now, despite the fantastic scenery, we had not seen a geyser. Today we saw The Geyser that all others were named after. It was another fantastic day and rounded off the trip nicely, the Golden Circle Tour’s first stop was at The Geyser, followed by as the Gullfoss (Golden Falls) waterfall, an awesome sight and finally snorkelling.
The snorkelling was by far the highlight of the day - it may not sound appealing to all snorkelling in 3°C but we did have dry suits (although that did nothing to protect the face, especially not the lips). We snorkelled between the American and Eurasian Tectonic Plate, where the earth is slowly pulling itself apart creating a deep fissure which has long ago filled with crystal clear glacial water, varying in depth from 1m to 10’s of meters if not hundreds. The water was so clear it was hard to get a sense of depth. The sights were beautiful, with extraordinary colours and features. I could have pottered around in the water for hours. Brilliant!!
25 Aug 14 Unfortunately today we have to travel back, I’ll be sad to leave Iceland and am sure I will return.
Summary This was an excellent adventure from start to finish and epitomises the term Adventurous Training. This trip has been the first of it’s kind with 4 RMP and it certainly won’t be the last. The expedition has developed new mountaineers and provided 5 new Summer Mountain Foundation trained personnel, the basis for new mountain leaders and adventure training longevity. It was unfortunate that we didn’t fulfil all objectives of the expedition, in particular the peaks of Eyjafjallajökull and Hvannadalshnjúkur, however the welfare of the group must outweigh the task, and allows another opportunity to conquer them at a later date.
Thank you. This trip couldn’t have happened without the kind generosity of a number of people, agencies and charities. To name a few: HQ Sp Comd, 101 Log Bde, 15 NE Bde, 4 RMP, 252 Pro Coy, Berlin Infantry Bde, Ulysses Trust and the RMP Central Fund. Thank you all for allowing us to have this great, once in a lifetime experience.
